I walk for 10 minutes in Oman’s midday heat, first across a vast, dry riverbed and then on a winding path up a hill. There are no signs, but I know what I’m looking for is here – Google Earth says it is. I reach a hilltop overlooking the Indian Ocean and there it is, surrounded by rubble: the imposing, but visibly decaying, Tomb of Bibi Maryam – the last standing evidence of the ancient city of Qalhat. With its roof collapsed and everything around it in ruins, the......
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