Good meat loves salt. That butcher’s refrain might be best expressed by the bistecca alla fiorentina—a giant, bone-in cut of beef that is dusted with salt and pepper, grilled over scorching hot coals, and served very rare. A brush of rosemary and other herbs is sometimes used to baste the steak with olive oil during cooking, and it is meant to be sliced and served family style, sauced only by its own meaty juice. The bistecca is one of the classic dishes of Italy’s Tuscany region, and it’s a symbol of a culinary tradition that prizes high quality...
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